Jalapeno
Capsicum annuum
The reliable one. Heavy cropper, moderate heat, and the corking on the shoulders tells you something.

Start indoors and be patient
Sow eight to ten weeks before last frost at 80-85F with bottom heat - peppers germinate poorly below 75F and can take three weeks. Transplant only once nights hold above 55F; peppers set out into cold soil sulk for a month and never fully recover.
Green or red
A jalapeno is fully grown at the green stage most people know, but it is not ripe. Left another two to three weeks it turns red, becomes noticeably sweeter and slightly hotter. Both stages are worth picking; red jalapenos are what chipotles are made from.
Corking is a feature
The fine white stretch marks on the shoulders of a mature jalapeno are corking. It indicates a fully developed, usually hotter pod, and in Mexico corked pods are preferred. Some varieties cork heavily and some barely at all - it is not damage.
Heat is variable and stress-driven
Capsaicin production rises with heat, sun and mild water stress. The same variety grown in a cool wet summer will be markedly milder than in a hot dry one, and pods from the same plant vary. If you want reliably mild pods, keep them well watered; for heat, ease off late in the season.
Feeding
Moderate. Too much nitrogen gives a large leafy plant with few pods. Feed with something balanced at planting and switch to lower nitrogen once flowering begins. Peppers respond well to added calcium and magnesium.
Water and blossom drop
Steady moisture - about an inch a week - and a good mulch. Flowers drop in sustained heat above 90F, in cold snaps below 60F, and under drought stress. A mid-season gap in production is usually temperature, not disease.
Support the heavy croppers
A well-grown jalapeno carries thirty pods and will lean or split at the crotch. A single stake or a small cage prevents the loss of a main branch.
Pests and disease
Aphids on growing tips, pepper maggot in some areas, and European corn borer entering under the calyx. Bacterial leaf spot causes water-soaked spots and defoliation in wet weather - use clean seed and resistant varieties. Sunscald on exposed pods appears as pale papery patches, which is a reason not to over-prune foliage.
Harvest and storage
Cut with secateurs leaving a short stem; pulling tears the branch. Picking regularly keeps the plant producing. Green pods keep two weeks refrigerated. They freeze whole with no blanching, pickle very well, and red ones smoke into chipotles. Wear gloves when cutting large quantities.
- Heat
- 2,500-8,000 SHU
- Days to harvest
- 70-80 green, +2 wks red
- Spacing
- 18-24 in
- Height
- 24-36 in
- Sun
- Full
- pH
- 6.0-6.8
- Soil temp
- 65F+
- Yield
- 25-35 pods/plant