Strawberry
Fragaria x ananassa
June-bearing gives one big crop; everbearing dribbles all season. Pick the one that suits your kitchen.

Crown depth is critical
Plant so the crown - the thick point where roots meet leaves - sits exactly at soil level. Too deep and it rots; too shallow and the roots dry out. This single detail kills more new strawberry beds than anything else, and it is worth taking time over each plant.
Pinch the first year
Remove all flowers in the planting year on June-bearing types so the plant puts everything into roots and runners. It costs you one season and roughly doubles the crop from year two onward. Everbearers need only the first six weeks of flowers removed.
Choose a system
The matted row system lets June-bearers runner freely into a wide band, thinned to about one plant per six inches - highest total yield, more disease, smaller berries. The hill system removes all runners and grows individual plants on raised ridges - larger berries, easier picking, more work. Everbearers and day-neutrals suit the hill system.
Mulch with straw
Straw mulch keeps fruit off wet soil, suppresses weeds, conserves moisture and reduces rot - it is where the name strawberry may come from. In winter, cover the crowns with three to four inches of straw after the ground freezes to prevent heaving, and pull it back in early spring.
Frost protection at bloom
Strawberry flowers are killed by a light frost, showing as a black centre in the flower, and a killed flower produces no fruit. Cover the bed with row fabric on frosty spring nights while in bloom - this is often the difference between a crop and none.
Renovate June-bearing beds
Immediately after harvest, mow the foliage to an inch above the crowns, narrow the rows, thin the plants and fertilise. This restores vigour and is standard practice for matted-row beds.
Pests and disease
Slugs and birds are the main direct threats - netting and iron phosphate bait. Grey mould (botrytis) rots fruit in wet weather; airflow and straw mulch help. Spotted wing drosophila lays in ripening fruit and is an increasing problem - pick frequently and completely, and remove overripe fruit. Verticillium wilt is soil-borne, so do not plant where tomatoes, potatoes, peppers or eggplant have grown in the last three years.
Renew the bed
Yields fall after three or four years as virus load and disease build up. Start a new bed from your own runners on fresh ground on a rolling three-year cycle, or buy certified virus-free stock periodically.
Harvest and storage
Pick fully red with the calyx attached, in the cool of the morning, every day or two in peak season. They do not ripen after picking. Do not wash until you are about to eat them. Two or three days in the fridge at best; they freeze well whole and make excellent jam.
- Hardiness
- Zone 4-9
- First fruit
- Year 2 (June-bearing)
- Spacing
- 12-18 in
- Row spacing
- 3-4 ft
- Sun
- Full
- pH
- 5.5-6.5
- Replace every
- 3-4 yrs
- Water
- 1-2 in/week